Bloggbild för: Ultimate guide for dry skin

Ultimate guide for dry skin

Beauty
March 18, 2024 11 min reading

Oily skin, greasy skin, or shiny skin are all skin types that describe the same thing, namely overproduction of natural sebum.

Contents

Why do you get oily skin?

Regardless of skin type, everyone has sebaceous glands in the dermis (beneath the protective epidermis). Most sebaceous glands are found in the scalp, face, chest, and back. Sebaceous glands produce sebum, which is rich in fats. In skincare, sebum is often simply called sebum.

Sebum makes the skin soft, supple, prevents dehydration, and limits harmful bacterial growth. Why the skin overproduces sebum can have many different reasons. We'll go through the most common causes behind oily skin.

Hormones

Androgens are a group of sex hormones where testosterone is the most well-known hormone. Since sebaceous glands are stimulated by androgens, it's common to have oilier skin during puberty for boys. Even though girls have lower androgen levels, an increase in these hormones can cause oilier skin.

Androgen levels can increase during stress, puberty, the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, and menopause. Here, genetics, heredity, and age can play a role, affecting the activity of the sebaceous glands.

Weather

Most people experience getting oilier or less dry skin during summer or when staying in warm climates.

Here's what happens when temperature and humidity increase:

  • if you travel on vacation from a cold to warm climate, the skin doesn't have time to downregulate sebum production quickly. The skin doesn't need as much sebum when humidity is high. You experience having oilier skin even though sebum production is unchanged.

  • summer sun dries out the skin. More sebum can be produced to soften and protect the skin against dehydration.

  • you sweat more as the body tries to cool down. Sebum is needed for sweat to stay on the skin longer. Since sebum and sweat don't dissolve with each other, the skin can have small "sweat droplets" that shine. In this case, many people mistake increased sweat for increased sebum production. In reality, it's only about how much you sweat.

  • sweat mixed with powder makeup settles in patches and gets stuck in fine lines on the skin. This can cause acne and various skin problems.

Dry skin

The skin (and body) does everything to create balance. When the skin is dry, sebum production therefore increases in an attempt to compensate for the moisture deficiency. The root cause of oily skin can therefore often be actually dry skin.

Wrong products

The cause of oily skin can also be wrong skincare products. An overly drying cleanser or too moisture-poor cream can absolutely cause imbalance in the skin and result in shiny skin.

Excessive skincare routine

You can also get oily skin from too harsh or excessive skincare routines such as:

  • too frequent washing.

  • too much or harsh exfoliation, physical friction and rubbing.

  • too much peeling and/or acids.

  • constantly introducing new products to the skin.

With an extreme skincare routine, too much sebum can be washed away, the skin becomes irritated and the skin barrier becomes weakened. The skin increases sebum production to compensate for the loss and protect the skin.

Why these common tips for oily skin don't help

Regardless of the root cause of oily skin, there are certain tips you should watch out for. These tips may feel good initially, but worsen the skin's condition in the long run. Oily and shiny skin is usually the result of an imbalance in the skin.

We'll go through a few common tips that contribute to more imbalance and even oilier skin.

Dry out the skin

The most common tips for oily skin focus on drying out the skin:

"Wash your face often"

The advice to wash your face more frequently to keep skin matte and free from shine and oil is a very bad idea. Especially if the advice is to wash with a strong cleansing product (that foams).

Too frequent washing removes too much of the sebum that needs to remain in the skin. This stimulates the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum. Even the skin's good bacterial flora can be disrupted by cleansing products and excessive washing.

"Use toners with alcohol"

It's absolutely true that alcohol has antibacterial effects, among other things. A certain amount of alcohol together with moisturizing and pH-adjusting ingredients can therefore be beneficial for acne-prone skin.

But an alcohol-based toner or facial water without any moisturizing and pH-balancing properties is not good for any skin type at all. Alcohol is very drying, which only stimulates the skin's own oil production.

If you don't know which ingredients provide moisture and pH balance, it's best to choose a toner without alcohol.A toner should not be mattifying, but primarily moisturizing, pore-tightening, and pH-balancing.

"Don't use oils"

For a long time, there has been fear of plant-based oils, especially regarding oily skin and acne-prone skin. The advice to use oil-free products and creams is based on the fear that:

  • plant-based oils clog pores.

  • plant-based oils are too rich for oilier skin types.

But there are different types of plant-based oils! A rich oil like coconut oil or avocado oil is usually not ideal for oily skin. However, the lightweight thistle oil, watermelon seed oil, or the balancing jojoba oil is excellent for oily skin.

All plant-based oils are not the same. They have unique fatty acid compositions which give them different properties and therefore suit different skin types differently well.

Additionally, plant oils are a natural source of vitamins, antioxidants, and enzymes, among other things, that support the skin's own functions.Keep in mind that most oil-free products (free from plant-based oils) contain various forms of silicones, consistency agents, stabilizers, and fragrances.

These neither provide moisture, create balance, nor strengthen the skin. There are significant differences between conventional and organic skincare, as well as between plant-based oils and petroleum-based oils that are important to know about.

Use salicylic acid

Salicylic acid has good effects on oily skin. Salicylic acid has good exfoliating properties and can penetrate the skin and dissolve clogged pores.

The downside of salicylic acid is that it's incredibly irritating and drying. The skin can easily become red, burned, and flaky. Salicylic acid is a salicylate and a component of acetylsalicylic acid. The substance:

  • harms children's health.

  • has negative effects on women's fertility.

  • can pass into breast milk and harm the baby.

Individual studies have shown that salicylic acid applied topically to the skin is safe for pregnant women to use. Other studies claim that salicylic acid should absolutely not be used by pregnant women.

More studies are simply needed to establish a safe answer on whether salicylic acid affects us. For this reason, we do not recommend it to:

  • children.

  • pregnant women.

  • women who want to become pregnant.

  • nursing women.

Salicylic acid can both reduce sebum in the skin and counteract acne. It should be used with caution:

  • use in low concentrations.

  • use only one product with salicylic acid in your skincare routine.

  • preferably don't use together with other acids and especially not with retinol and vitamin C.

  • don't use if you have sensitive skin or problem skin.

How to fix oily skin

What helps against oily skin and why? Think long-term when you want to get rid of oily skin.

The skin is our largest organ that adjusts and adapts to imbalances (internal and external). Therefore, help the skin come into balance.

For you with oily skin, it's especially important that the skin has:

  • pH balance.

  • a microbiome in good balance, i.e., a good balance of beneficial bacteria.

  • balanced sebum production.

Therefore, you want to use products and have a skincare routine that:

  • in the long run provides balance to the skin's moisture levels and sebum production.

  • removes dirt and excess sebum without removing the natural sebum in the skin.

  • makes the skin feel clean, while smooth and moisturized.

We hereby sort out the biggest mistakes you can make as well as what actually helps against oily skin.

Oily skin caused by hormones

It's difficult but not impossible when it's the hormones causing the trouble. Whether it's puberty or menstruation, our hormones are affected by stress, sleep, and diet.

  • Biggest mistake: eating unhealthily, stressing as usual, going to bed late.

  • What can help: By slowing down, doing breathing exercises, getting good and sufficient sleep, you can affect hormone levels. A balanced diet can also make a big difference. Cut down on inflammatory foods like red meat, sugar, wheat, and dairy products. Eat more greens, healthy fats, and drink more water. Take extra good care of yourself when you're in a period where hormone levels fluctuate.

Oilier skin in summer

It's common for skin to feel less dry during the summer months. For you with oily skin, summer can be an extra challenging period. Therefore, it's important to adapt your skincare according to the weather.

Remember! When moisture is lost, the skin is stimulated to produce more sebum to compensate for the lost moisture. Therefore, your summer skincare routine should be adapted so that moisture and oil balance is restored.

Protect skin from drying sunlight

The sun's UV rays dry out and burn the skin more than you think. Therefore, use SPF30 (at minimum) to prevent moisture loss and burns.

  • Biggest mistake: skipping SPF on the face.

  • Best SPF for oily skin: Odylique Organic Sun Screen SPF30

Skin's moisture balance during summer

The higher humidity means the skin needs less moisturizing. If you also avoid the sun and don't sweat, the skin doesn't lose as much moisture. Then you should switch to a lighter, less nourishing face cream or skip creams/oils and only use serum.

  • Biggest mistake: using the same skincare products year-round.

  • Best summer products for oily skin:
    Odylique Spot-on Serum
    True Balance Gel Cream from Evolve

However, if you spend time in the sun and/or sweat a lot, you need to compensate for both moisture and oil loss (despite the higher humidity). When you sweat, both moisture and oil are drawn to the skin's surface which eventually evaporates or is wiped away.

Use moisturizing aloe vera or products with hyaluronic acid under your SPF in the morning and under face cream or face oil in the evening.

  • Biggest mistake: stopping moisturizing your face.

  • Best products for moisture and oil loss: Odylique Spot-on Serum, Evolve Hyaluronic serum 200 or i+m Naturkosmetik Fluid Equalize Clay Hyaluron

Wear less makeup when you sweat

When you sweat in the summer heat, moisture mixes with your makeup. Therefore, use less makeup in summer.

Choose cream makeup over powder makeup, as water (sweat) causes powder makeup to clump on the skin, which can cause skin irritation and acne.

Skip thick layers of mattifying makeup. It dries out and becomes like a lid for the skin in summer heat.

  • Biggest mistake: using thick layers of makeup or drying mattifying makeup.

  • Best summer makeup tip for oily skin: use less makeup and accept that the skin needs to sweat and looks more moist when it's warm.

  • Use self-tanner instead of foundation: Eco by Sonya Tan Face Water. Try a lighter foundation and SPF in one: Alga Maris Tonat Solskydd SPF30.

High sebum production due to dry skin

Using a harsh cleansing face wash, alcohol-based facial toner, and various mattifying products only triggers the skin to produce more sebum.

Therefore, choose products that cleanse and balance without disrupting the natural skin oils.

  • Biggest mistake: using products that create a matte appearance by drying out the skin.

  • Best cleansing and mattifying products for oily skin:
    Daily face wash – Evolve Daily Detox Facial Wash
    Alcohol-free toner – Inlight Beauty Floral Tonic
    Alcohol-free makeup remover – Evolve Deep Clean Micellar Water
    Face mask – Evolve True Balance SOS Mask
    Primer – 100% Pure Mattifying Primer

Oily skin due to excessive routine

It's not just drying skincare products that create imbalances.

  • Biggest mistake: constantly over-treating the skin with various products, washes, masks, and exfoliations weakens the skin barrier, disrupts pH levels, moisture levels, and the beneficial microflora. The end result can be acne, irritated, inflamed, oily, and sensitive skin.

  • Best skincare routine for imbalanced oily skin:

  • Wash your face at most 2 times a day.

  • Exfoliate and peel according to the product's recommendation or a total maximum of 2-3 times per week.

  • Be patient. Don't constantly introduce new products to your skin. A new product should be used for 4-6 weeks to see its full potential.

Oils that suit oily skin

Like dissolves like, meaning oil dissolves oil. Therefore, plant-based oils are the very best for oily skin. Try it and be amazed by the fantastic results.

Test both washing your face with oil and moisturizing your skin with oil.

  • Biggest mistake: being afraid to use plant-based oils.

  • Best oils for oily skin:

| Cleansing oil | Face oil | |
| ----------------------------------------- | ----------- | - |
| Pure, cold-pressed oil – Jojoba oil | x | x |
| Pure, cold-pressed oil (lightweight) – Watermelon seed oil | x | x |
| Pure, cold-pressed oil (lightweight) – Squalane | x | |
| Pure, cold-pressed oil (lightweight) – Hemp seed oil | x | |
| Oil blend – Inlight Beauty Face Oil | x | |
| Oil blend – Inlight Beauty Make Up Remover | x | |

Acids for oily skin types

There are certain acids that are particularly suitable for oily skin. White willow bark extract is not a pure acid. However, it has exfoliating properties and is therefore included here among the other acids.

White willow bark extract

White willow bark extract can unclog pores, balance and control sebum production. It also has potent antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

White willow bark extract is rich in tannins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, and other minerals that soothe the skin and support cell regeneration. At the same time, it gently exfoliates, has astringent effects, and counteracts free radicals.

The great advantage is that white willow contains salicin, which is a milder version of salicylic acid. It doesn't irritate the skin and is gentle enough for sensitive skin.

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is especially good if you have oily skin with acne. Glycolic acid is the smallest AHA acid (alpha hydroxy acid) and therefore works deeply. It dissolves and reduces excess sebum.

The acid is not recommended for sensitive skin as it can feel too harsh.

Lactic acid

Lactic acid is the mildest AHA acid. It works on the skin's surface and gently dissolves excess sebum. It's also suitable for sensitive skin.

  • Biggest mistake: using your own acid combinations, too many strong acids, and peeling the skin for too long or too often.

  • Best peels for oily skin:

| White willow bark extract | Glycolic acid | Lactic acid |
| ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ---------- | --------- |
| | | |
| Evolve Miracle AHA 3 minute Mask | x | x |
| Eco By Sonya Super Acai Exfoliator | x | |
| Evolve Liquid Radiance Glycolic Toner (exfoliating toner) | x | x |

Read our Ultimate Guide for acne skin for more information.