If you're interested in skincare, you've probably heard of hyaluronic acid. But you might not be sure how to use it, if it's right for you, or how to fit it into your skincare routine. In this article written by Zainab Danjuma from Evolve Organic Beauty (one of our favorite brands here at Glimja), Evolve's founder Laura Rudoe answers all questions about hyaluronic acid and explains how you can best benefit from this amazing molecule for your skin.
What is Hyaluronic Acid?
You might think that hyaluronic acid is one of those skincare acids everyone talks about; like BHA, AHA, and glycolic acid, which exfoliate and increase cell turnover. But it's not.
Even though hyaluronic acid makes your skin plumper and gives it that beautifully "glowing" appearance, it works in a completely different way.
It's actually not an "acid" at all. Hyaluronic acid is instead a gel-type, sugar-based molecule that can hold an enormous amount of water – up to 1000 times its own weight to be exact.
It's a humectant (an ingredient that draws moisture from the surrounding air into the skin). This makes it perfect for rehydrating the skin.
Despite its name, hyaluronic acid is actually a very gentle ingredient that can be used by everyone, even those with sensitive skin.
Where is Hyaluronic Acid Found?
One of the things that makes hyaluronic acid so effective in skincare is that it's naturally produced by the body. It's found in skin, tendons, and blood vessels.
Approximately 50% of the hyaluronic acid naturally present in the body is found in the skin, where it works to accelerate tissue repair by increasing cell metabolism and forming a gel-like layer around cells.
However, as we age, the amount we store in our bodies decreases – by age 50, it's possible that the body's hyaluronic acid reserves have decreased by 50%.
This is one of the reasons why our skin tends to become drier and duller as we get older, as new skin cells aren't produced as quickly.
Because of this, we look for external sources of hyaluronic acid to "replenish" our natural reserves.
Additionally, you don't need to wait until you see signs of aging to get started; hyaluronic acid is excellent for skin at any age.
What are the key benefits of hyaluronic acid?
It's scientifically proven that using hyaluronic acid topically, as a serum or cream, helps improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. But hydration isn't the only benefit this wonderful molecule provides.
Hyaluronic acid can help protect the skin against UVB radiation, which in turn prevents sun spots, wrinkles, and skin damage.
Evolve Organic Beauty uses two different types of hyaluronic acid in their products – low and very low molecular weight.While low molecular weight is more than sufficient for hydration, very low molecular weight penetrates even deeper into the skin's layers and is even more effective for pro-aging.
It not only forms a protective layer on the skin, but also fights free radicals caused by ultraviolet (UV) light exposure. This means that free radicals don't get the chance to attack your skin, making it calmer, clearer, and with fewer imperfections.
It's from this knowledge that Laura Rudoe created her favorite product; Daily Defence Moisture Mist.
Evolve has designed it so it can be sprayed onto the skin, delivering a dose of protective ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, which makes the skin look refreshed and radiant.
Keep it in the refrigerator and it becomes the perfect hydration hero for hot days.
It's also great for protecting against the effects of external pollutants, which can cause signs of premature aging.
Another big favorite is Evolve's 360 Eye and Lip Contour which is a nourishing eye and lip cream.
It has an advanced formulation with low molecular hyaluronic acid that helps reduce wrinkles and dark circles.
Hyaluronic Acid is a Humectant, Not a Moisturizer
Hyaluronic acid doesn't retain moisture in the skin. Imagine your skin as a sponge. If you fill it with water, it becomes plump and spongy. However, if you let it dry out, it will soon return to being dry.
Hyaluronic acid essentially functions like water in a sponge - it fills and draws moisture from the air. Hyaluronic acid therefore helps introduce moisture into the skin and helps the skin become more hydrated.
However, it doesn't help the skin retain that moisture. For that, you can complement with face creams, serums, and oils. If you stop using hyaluronic acid, you'll therefore stop seeing the benefits.
How Does Hyaluronic Acid Work in Skincare?
Many hyaluronic acid molecules are too large to penetrate the skin's surface. However, this isn't a bad thing. The acid creates a protective film that improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Evolve's organic Hyaluronic Serum 200 is somewhat different; the lower molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid Evolve uses means it can penetrate deeper into the skin, which in turn means the skin can be hydrated even more effectively. It also helps the skin's collagen production, which contributes to keeping the skin elastic and firm, thus giving a more youthful appearance. Doctors and dermatologists often use hyaluronic acid as a biodegradable filler, due to how harmoniously it works with the body's natural functions. They typically place it in cheeks, lips, and under the eyes to reduce signs of aging, but you don't need injections to benefit from its advantages.
Which skin type benefits most from hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid is suitable for all skin types and everyone benefits from it.
Can those with oily skin use hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid doesn't oversaturate oily skin because it regulates how much moisture the skin needs. It can actually reduce overproduction of oil by rebalancing the skin's moisture needs. Hyaluronic acid also has naturally calming properties, so if you suffer from breakouts or redness, it will soothe your skin while hydrating it.
Evolve's True Balance Gel Cream is designed for oily and acne-prone skin and uses hyaluronic acid to provide a dose of non-greasy hydration, while the other ingredients work to balance oil production and keep the skin calm.
Is hyaluronic acid safe for sensitive skin and skin with eczema?
Yes, sensitive skin and people with conditions such as eczema and rosacea can use hyaluronic acid without worrying about reactions.
In a recently conducted study, it was actually found that when combined with proteoglycan and collagen, it helps restore the skin's surface and reduce itching and sensitivity.
Is hyaluronic acid good for dry skin?
Absolutely.
In a 2014 study, participants used topical hyaluronic acid in several different ways, including as a lotion, serum, and cream.
The study results showed an increase in skin hydration of up to 96% after 8 weeks of use across the different types, regardless of how it was applied.
It helps the skin maintain moisture and can even reduce inflammation and tenderness by supporting the skin's natural healing process (reduces skin cracking due to dryness), as evidenced by a 2016 study.
Is Hyaluronic Acid Effective for Aging Skin?
As we age, we lose elasticity and definition in our skin. The skin becomes less smooth, the texture becomes coarser, and fine lines become more prominent.
Firstly, regular use of a good hyaluronic acid serum helps protect the skin against free radicals and pollutants, which reduces early signs of aging.
Studies have also shown that hyaluronic acid serums can help reduce skin unevenness and increase skin elasticity, effectively turning back the clock. This effect is significant, even if it's not permanent.This effect is significant, even if it's not permanent.
In another study from 2014, participants applied hyaluronic acid topically, twice daily, for eight weeks. It showed a 40% reduction in wrinkle depth and up to a 55% increase in skin firmness and elasticity compared to participants who did not apply the acid.
How Do I Use Hyaluronic Acid in My Daily Routine?
It depends on which skincare products you use. Moisturizer and serum are two of the most common forms of hyaluronic acid.
Moisturizer
Use a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid at least twice a day, morning and evening, always after cleansing, exfoliating, or applying serum. Here you can find Evolve's Daily Renew Facial Cream and Evolve's Multi Peptide 360 Anti-Ageing Cream, both fantastic facial creams with hyaluronic acid plus much more.
Serum
A serum with hyaluronic acid is best used after cleansing. Before drying your face, pat a few drops onto your face with your palms. Apply a nourishing moisturizer immediately afterward to seal in all the hydration. Hyaluronic acid works well with most common skincare ingredients, even acid-based ones. Moisturizers and oil-based serums contain oils that help repair the skin's barrier layer which seals moisture in the skin and prevents it from evaporating. Most people (unless they have very oily skin) need more moisture and oil. The most effective approach can be to first use a water-based serum to help it penetrate deeper into the skin and then apply an oil-based serum on top, after which a facial cream can seal in the moisture.
How often can I use hyaluronic acid?
Evolve recommends applying hyaluronic acid twice a day, morning and evening.
When can I see results from using hyaluronic acid?
You can see immediate results from your serum or cream, but they will fade. As with most types of skincare, the best results are usually seen within four to six weeks after consistent use.
Does my diet affect the production of hyaluronic acid in the body?
Since hyaluronic acid is produced by the body, it can be increased by eating certain foods. There is some evidence that starchy root vegetables can increase production, such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, and Jerusalem artichokes.
If you're in the mood for something more refreshing, you can have a citrus fruit: they contain naringenin which prevents hyaluronic acid from breaking down in the body. Fruits that contain high levels of naringenin include oranges, bananas, grapefruits, and tomatoes.Finally, not surprisingly, leafy green vegetables are on the list. They contain magnesium, which facilitates the body's production of hyaluronic acid.
*Article written by Zainab Danjuma with answers from Laura Rudoe who is the founder of the brand *Evolve Organic Beauty
